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Post by debewley on Sept 26, 2006 17:01:46 GMT -5
Realistically, how long can I expect my Aveo to last? I know there are a ton of variables to be considered; but given regular maintenance and moderate driving what should I expect? 100K miles? 120K? More? I know variants of the 1.6 ETEC II and the Aveo/Swift/Lanos frame have existed for some time now. But I really don’t know what the “normal” life expectancy of the drive train/body should be?
In the two years I’ve owned my ’04 Hatchback I’ve racked up almost 40K miles. Probably 90% of that has been Interstate or highway driving. I typically drive 75 to 78 mph on the Interstates and 60 or so on secondary roads. And I run the AC probably 7 months of the year. So far I’ve been really pleased. Other than expected maintenance cost I’ve had to change the dome light one time. And I’m still amazed at how tight fitting and rattle-free this little car is.
I’m now driving about 900 employer-reimbursed miles/month. At 44.5 cents/mile that’s about $400/month I’m getting for travel expenses. Given no astronomical, ($4.00/gallon +), cost of gas; and no major repairs this little car will have pretty much paid for itself in another 3 years.
BTW….I do computer/network support. With the rear seat removed I can carry 8 computers with LCD monitors and necessary peripherals . Not bad when I’ve got as much as 50 miles between offices.
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md321
Idle User
Posts: 15
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Post by md321 on Sept 26, 2006 18:00:06 GMT -5
Hi debewley, These cars are too new to rate I think. Only been around since '04. Powertrain wise, if yours has ran all this time w/o any problems and you do regular maintenance, oil changes, including changing the timing belt when needed, the engine should work for many years to come. This is my non-scientific opinion of course  ALOT about a car's longevity depends on where you live/drive the car and the local climate. Here in Ottawa, Canada.. where we salt our roads to all heck in the winter (not for taste..  ) I don't expect these little demons to last more than 10 years w/o MAJOR body corrosion seeing as the steel they're made of appears very thin. I'd recommend yearly rust/oil treatments and regular carwashes for those that live in "salt happy" cities. I just recently had to retire a 1993 Mazda B2200 (195000 km on the odo), not because the engine was giving up, quite the opposite it was running great!.. but because rust was slowly eating it up.  Just my 2cents -Marc |
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Post by Brian5475E on Sept 26, 2006 18:45:11 GMT -5
WRONG! Thsi powertrain has been around for years. You better change your timing belt now! they seem to break between 40k - 55K
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md321
Idle User
Posts: 15
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Post by md321 on Sept 26, 2006 19:57:17 GMT -5
WRONG! Thsi powertrain has been around for years. You better change your timing belt now! they seem to break between 40k - 55KMy Mazda B2200 1993 lasted all it's life on 1 belt. I was certainly pushing it. But i didn't care because it was of the non-interference engine type. The valves, don't slap the piston in case of breakage. Is the ETEC II an interference type engine? Please advise. If so. change belts regularly If it's non-inteference.. be prepared to call a cab and have a cheap repair  -Marc
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norm
Diesel User
Posts: 107
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Post by norm on Sept 26, 2006 21:53:12 GMT -5
To give an idea of this car or one similar to it. When I lived in Mexico I had a car called a Chevy Pop which is basically was a Metro or Geo in the US and Canada. You still see the Metro and Geo around, maybe not in the best condition but as was said with the right maintenance the car will last a little longer.
Best car I ever had, paid $300 bucks for it, was a 78 Toyota Corolla. However, they don't make them like they used to. I know that the term coined for a lot of the new cars these days is DISPOSIBLE.
I know that I'll probably be able to give my Aveo to my kid, he's 4, if I maintain it.
As for the timing belt, I've seen post after post saying the same thing, change it early, don't wait for the 60k mark. Maybe a little money spent on a better quality timing belt would be an idea rather than an AC Delco one.
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Post by AveoSam on Sept 26, 2006 22:26:44 GMT -5
from what ive heard this engine is really solid and lasts a long time as long as you change the timing belt like brian said....this engine isnt new technology guys, its been used in daewoos for a while and i believe in some countries they use cars with this engine as taxis because they last really long when regular maintance is done.....also md321, ignorance is not bliss in this case....timing belt brakes on this motor and there go the valves...many people like brian and myself know this because this engine isnt as new as you think, so this history we can learn from
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Post by debewley on Sept 27, 2006 2:56:42 GMT -5
Is there a better quality after market, non-OEM timing belt I should consider since that is such an important factor?
I live in Florida so I obviously don't worry about salt on the roads during winter time. But I do have several months of 90+ degree temperatures to contend with. And there is the occasional hurricane. The only ding I have on the car is from a limb I ran over after Hurricane Ivan. That left a quater-sized ding on the lower half of the passenger door.
Thanks much for your responses.
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Post by debewley on Sept 27, 2006 3:14:03 GMT -5
Best car I ever had, paid $300 bucks for it, was a 78 Toyota Corolla. However, they don't make them like they used to. I know that the term coined for a lot of the new cars these days is DISPOSIBLE. . I hear you Norm. The cheapest car I ever owned. was a 1967 Ford station wagon. It was about the size of an M1 tank and ugly as sin. But I paid $300 for it; drove it three years; then sold it for $325. |
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Post by jasoto on Sept 27, 2006 19:56:40 GMT -5
Hi,
I stored this information from Daewootech a long time ago. This info was brought by Tom of 360Dynamics...very useful! This is the belt I plan to buy soon since I have two Aveos. I have a Lanos before and at 58K miles the belt broke (and with it my pocket also hehe!). Tom recommended to replace the belt, tensioner and pulley at the same time...also if possible do the water pump.
Hope it is useful! ;D
____________________________________________________
GATES PowerGrip timing belts are much superior to the OEM one, due to their stronger construction...read below:
PowerGrip® timing belt
Designed to handle a wide speed range and constant, synchronous drive power requirements, common to overhead camshaft applications. Meets or exceeds OEM performance requirements.
•Strong, fibreglass tensile cords, helically wound to provide increased flexibility and resistance to elongation.
•Durable backing material reinforces the belt and protects it against grease, oil drops, moisture and wear.
•Trapezoidal, curvilinear or modified curvilinear profile, depending on the application.
•Precision-formed teeth provide positive engagement with the mating grooves on the sprocket and reduce noise level.
•Tough facing prevents wear caused by friction.
•Compound in HNBR (HSN), ACSM, high-temperature polychloroprene or polychloroprene, depending on the application.
Higher load capacity, longer life under wider ranges for temperature and other environmental conditions along with quieter operation are the key areas of development for synchronous belt drive systems (SBDS).
The latest technology of PowerGrip® synchronous belts to drive camshaft applications is based on peroxide cured HNBR using high wear resistant fabric and high strength cords with low tensile decay and low elongation. Belts are available in a wide range of profiles. The current belt technology is capable of meeting the requirement for over 250,000 km lifetime. They are used over the complete range of gasoline engines and high load direct injection diesel engines using rotary pump, unit injectors and common rail technology. Belt development programmes from the viewpoint of engine life are progressing rapidly.
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md321
Idle User
Posts: 15
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Post by md321 on Sept 27, 2006 20:56:54 GMT -5
md321 awhile ago said: "Powertrain wise, if yours has ran all this time w/o any problems and you do regular maintenance, oil changes, including changing the timing belt when needed, the engine should work for many years to come. This is my non-scientific opinion of course" That. was my 2 cents. The manual does recommend a belt replacement at 85 000K. I will abide by that. I don't believe i was "WRONG" ROFL. Marc -2006 Aveo 5, Yellow, Fully loaded except for mudflaps and sunroof. oh and no 15" alloy wheels.  |
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Post by AveoSam on Sept 27, 2006 21:06:25 GMT -5
md321 awhile ago said: "Powertrain wise, if yours has ran all this time w/o any problems and you do regular maintenance, oil changes, including changing the timing belt when needed, the engine should work for many years to come. This is my non-scientific opinion of course" That. was my 2 cents. The manual does recommend a belt replacement at 85 000K. I will abide by that. I don't believe i was "WRONG" ROFL. Marc -2006 Aveo 5, Yellow, Fully loaded except for mudflaps and sunroof. oh and no 15" alloy wheels. dont worry brian, ill take this one...yes you were wrong Marc. you were wrong about this: Hi debewley, These cars are too new to rate I think. Only been around since '04. brian never said you were wrong about anything in "powertrainwise" on....he just added what the right time to change the belt seems like from previous experiences |
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md321
Idle User
Posts: 15
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Post by md321 on Sept 27, 2006 21:27:25 GMT -5
AveoSam, I stand corrected and thanks for the reply ;D I had twitch when i wrote that statement. The engine has been around for long. i see that. but the new body (Not Lanos or whatever it was...) .. will die over time due to corrosion i reckon. We should start a new thread on body longevity  "When is a good time to start rust proofing your Aveo?" Cheers brother Aveoers! -Marc |
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Post by AveoSam on Sept 27, 2006 21:49:40 GMT -5
yea no doubt the body will die before the engine....what ever you do, dont use that under body tar crap that comes on factory cars.....that stuff doesnt work since the moisture just gets underneath
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red
Diesel User
Posts: 116
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Post by red on Sept 28, 2006 8:03:51 GMT -5
I got the dealer rust protection stuff not becuase it works the best, but gives me a lifetime rust warranty.. so who cares if it works the best, as long as they replace the panels etc. when they rust |
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) I don't expect these little demons to last more than 10 years w/o MAJOR body corrosion seeing as the steel they're made of appears very thin. I'd recommend yearly rust/oil treatments and regular carwashes for those that live in "salt happy" cities.
