Air induction for dummies

[Denis]

i don't think so, can you back up your argument?
i would like to hear your side...

[andy11]

exodus already proved this in the first post of this topic. To create more torque at lower rpms, you need to increase the velocity of the air in the intake. This is accomplished by reducing the pipe diameter. Adding a cold air intake would definitely get you more high-rpm HP, although very little, but would definitely not increase the velocity of the air. Therefore you would lose torque (acceleration). If you still don't believe me buy a cold air intake and dyno your car before and after the mod.

[Denis]

andy11 said:

exodus already proved this in the first post of this topic. To create more torque at lower rpms, you need to increase the velocity of the air in the intake. This is accomplished by reducing the pipe diameter. Adding a cold air intake would definitely get you more high-rpm HP, although very little, but would definitely not increase the velocity of the air. Therefore you would lose torque (acceleration). If you still don't believe me buy a cold air intake and dyno your car before and after the mod.

that exacly what a cold air intake does, it has a smoler size pipe that gois out of the engine compartment in to a opening in a bumper or some place, and sucks the COLD air in to the engine.

ps: you are confuzing cold air intake and short ram intake

[Ryan]

Also, where is most of the powerband in these engines? Above either 3000 or 3500 Rpm right? So you won't really get much in the low end no matter what you do to the intake and exaust system. With a better set of cams you might though. Like I said, 2" cat back or 2" and no cat and a good intake and that is about the best you will do. Get a exaust shop to bend you up a pipe that will run from the intake and down where the inlet side of the airbox is and you can clamp the cone filter on down there. Bingo, true CAI, not the filter in the stock location of the airbox wanna be CAI junk. And after any mods as always reset the computer and drive for a couple hours. And most CAIs are a larger Diameter pipe then the stock air tube from the box to the intake. Like 3" or bigger.

[Denis]

Ryan said:

And after any mods as always reset the computer and drive for a couple hours

do i have to reset the computer if i just put a cone filter on to the stock pipe? how do i reset it?

[Ryan]

I wouldn't worry to much after just the cone filter, just drive it and it will learn any changes, the main time to reset is after opening up the exaust any significant amount. Definitly reset it after changing the exaust out and opening up the intake. Oh right and to reset just make sure you have the theft lock card for the radio and unhook the battery for about 5 min.

[andy11]

I would love if someone would just dyno their car before and after, then we can all stop this debate. I know for a fact that I won't be doing it though cause buying a CAI for this motor is a complete waste of time and money.

Oh and btw Denis, I don't have the intakes confused. Like I said before the cold air intake will increase high-rpm HP because it allows a higher volume of colder air into the motor, but it will decrease the velocity, moving the torque curve so far up that you won't hit peak before the redline, therefore losing torque! Why do you think companies like K&N aren't producing CAI's for our cars. It's because there isn't a substantial gain in power to even make it worth while!

[TheAmazingJ]

seems to me a dual chamberd cai is in order, something like APEXi's dual chambered exaust. at low rpms, it would have a set a vanes that remain closed restricting airflow, and increasing velocity, then when u hammer it, it opens the vanes, prolly through air pressure er somthin and draws in air from a bigger pipe, while the whole system is routed to the fender , or somthing. something like that, seems to be the ideal answer. although the intake system the factory installed seems to have a similar design, what with its variable intake, the idea might be to add COLD air to the mix, through a dual chambered intake pipe, much like i described above, to get the COLD (ie. more dense) air there without losing velocity at any given engine rpm. seems like thats the weak link, as we all agree that cold air is good, and increased velocity is good, but getting the best of both worlds is the idea...

thats my 2 cents

[andy11]

That's a shucks good idea. It would probably work very well.

[TheAmazingJ]

glad someone agrees, lol

[Cameron]

mmmmm. what if one installs the 3" colad air intake design, but tapers the whole thing when getting close to the throttle body, kinda like ram air. would you not be increasing the velocity? i know you'd be increasing pressure, but if you take x volume and put it through y diameter, would you not increase z velocity?

just a question, thought id through it out there.


and in your guys opinion what would be a good diametre for the long induction setup?

thank you

[AveoSam]

i think my CAI is 3 inches and it works fine

[exodus]

The tapered design might defeat the purpose... the air might collide at the throttle body and create negative pressure.

I just took a look at the weapon R intake. It apparently has 2 tubes... any one have this installed, and been able to compare it to a regular old fat pipe intake?

[johnboy]

Ok so here is a quick question...which is better for overall performance, a K&N filter or an inexpensive(ebay) cone and intake?

[exodus]

johnboy said:

Ok so here is a quick question...which is better for overall performance, a K&N filter or an inexpensive(ebay) cone and intake?

I don't think it really matters, they both let a rediculous amount of particulates through. Just means you have to change your oil more often.