Post by subachad on Sept 7, 2006 16:14:59 GMT -5
OK, after doing some research, I no longer think remote turbos are stupid. I think it's a simple way of packaging a turbo to give a little more power even if it might not be the most efficient way of doing so. That said, I'm starting this thread to discuss the parts needed to build a remote turbo setup. This is not a hate thread, if you want to hate on the remote turbo idea please start an additional thread to speak about possible oil issues and lag. As I recall, there are no turbo Aveos yet...
1. Cut off stock muffler and mount turbo to the exhaust making sure the oil drain points down. For sake of argument lets say you had a TD04L off a WRX. (I'll have one after a turbo upgrade soon)
2. Down pipe would be a straight or turn down directly off the turbo.
3. Wastegate pressure is 7psi, but with the plumbing and a specific exhaust flange, I could probably get it down to 5 which *might* be doable without fuel mods to the engine. A wideband and knock detector (I have a detector and easy access to a wideband) will verify this.
4. Oil feed
10' of -4 to feed the oil ($50 for braided from Summit Racing)
"T" fitting at the oil pressure sending unit
Oil adapters, for the td04L I think it's a 10X1.25 going in. I already have most of the oil fittings since I kept extras on hand for my Subaru.
5. Oil Return
10' of -10 NON steel braided line runs about $50 from Summit and doesn't cut up your car like that steel braided crap
Shurflo oil pump to pump the oil return to a replacement oil filler cap ($200) this is the most expensive part of the project
6. Charge pipe
this is the pressured pipe that runs from the turbo to the throttle body and one of the more difficult parts to make. I could do it using some 2" J bends off ebay or whatever and 2" exhaust tubing which is about $4 for a 2' section at Autozone. This would allow me to make the charge pipe in my garage.
Silicone connectors can be had pretty cheap
7. PCV breather since you don't want to pressurize the valve cover
8. I have a SAAB 900 intercooler, but not sure if it's needed. Could mount in the fender where there is room and don't have to worry about running the pipes under the front bumper and around the big ass A/C cooler.
9. Intake, 3" tubing and a cone filter which I already have. Make sure it's out of direct water spray from the tires and make some sort of splash/dirt shield. It's in the back under the car, not much different than a CAI which goes in your dirty fender.
Timing - at 5psi, 91 octane should slow the burn down enough to keep it from detonating. The knock sensor will verify this.
Fuel - Cross fingers the stock ECU can handle 5psi. The Wideband will verify this. If not, a RRFPR will be the next step as they can be found for about $50 on Ebay. In fact, I sold one for $50 a few years ago.
without fuel mods, I can probably follow this and keep the cost under $300. Hypothetically of course, I'm not making any promises. Even if I did turbo it, the car is going away March of next year so I would sell the kit before selling the car and therefore would need to be able to return to stock in less than 2 hours.
Thoughts?
1. Cut off stock muffler and mount turbo to the exhaust making sure the oil drain points down. For sake of argument lets say you had a TD04L off a WRX. (I'll have one after a turbo upgrade soon)
2. Down pipe would be a straight or turn down directly off the turbo.
3. Wastegate pressure is 7psi, but with the plumbing and a specific exhaust flange, I could probably get it down to 5 which *might* be doable without fuel mods to the engine. A wideband and knock detector (I have a detector and easy access to a wideband) will verify this.
4. Oil feed
10' of -4 to feed the oil ($50 for braided from Summit Racing)
"T" fitting at the oil pressure sending unit
Oil adapters, for the td04L I think it's a 10X1.25 going in. I already have most of the oil fittings since I kept extras on hand for my Subaru.
5. Oil Return
10' of -10 NON steel braided line runs about $50 from Summit and doesn't cut up your car like that steel braided crap
Shurflo oil pump to pump the oil return to a replacement oil filler cap ($200) this is the most expensive part of the project
6. Charge pipe
this is the pressured pipe that runs from the turbo to the throttle body and one of the more difficult parts to make. I could do it using some 2" J bends off ebay or whatever and 2" exhaust tubing which is about $4 for a 2' section at Autozone. This would allow me to make the charge pipe in my garage.
Silicone connectors can be had pretty cheap
7. PCV breather since you don't want to pressurize the valve cover
8. I have a SAAB 900 intercooler, but not sure if it's needed. Could mount in the fender where there is room and don't have to worry about running the pipes under the front bumper and around the big ass A/C cooler.
9. Intake, 3" tubing and a cone filter which I already have. Make sure it's out of direct water spray from the tires and make some sort of splash/dirt shield. It's in the back under the car, not much different than a CAI which goes in your dirty fender.
Timing - at 5psi, 91 octane should slow the burn down enough to keep it from detonating. The knock sensor will verify this.
Fuel - Cross fingers the stock ECU can handle 5psi. The Wideband will verify this. If not, a RRFPR will be the next step as they can be found for about $50 on Ebay. In fact, I sold one for $50 a few years ago.
without fuel mods, I can probably follow this and keep the cost under $300. Hypothetically of course, I'm not making any promises. Even if I did turbo it, the car is going away March of next year so I would sell the kit before selling the car and therefore would need to be able to return to stock in less than 2 hours.
Thoughts?
