Post by AvEoblue on Jul 22, 2006 4:26:39 GMT -5
Rough location of harness to tap in wires.
Part Number for switch needed, dealer cost 10.33, list price 18.60
Harness pin out, you will be looking for a firewall pass through with 2 connectors, one white, one Grey. You want the white one. splice 1 lead off pin 6, dark green with a white stripe, and another wire lead off pin 7, dark green with a white stripe.
Here is how the circuit ties into the accelerator pedal.
Here is the picture of the "I/P" connector.
The only mounting I can come up with the switch for now, until my warranty runs out. Its a quick disconnect.
The switch will have a 4-pin connector. You will need to use the 2 outside pins for it to work. I used some non-insulated female terminal ends for this, I used some heat shrink around the terminals when done to prevent any connection between any other pins. IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH WAY YOU HOOK THE WIRES UP ON THE SWITCH END. I've tried both combinations, they work the same.
Part Number for switch needed, dealer cost 10.33, list price 18.60
Harness pin out, you will be looking for a firewall pass through with 2 connectors, one white, one Grey. You want the white one. splice 1 lead off pin 6, dark green with a white stripe, and another wire lead off pin 7, dark green with a white stripe.
Here is how the circuit ties into the accelerator pedal.
Here is the picture of the "I/P" connector.
The only mounting I can come up with the switch for now, until my warranty runs out. Its a quick disconnect.
The switch will have a 4-pin connector. You will need to use the 2 outside pins for it to work. I used some non-insulated female terminal ends for this, I used some heat shrink around the terminals when done to prevent any connection between any other pins. IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH WAY YOU HOOK THE WIRES UP ON THE SWITCH END. I've tried both combinations, they work the same.
